Feb
18
'10The penguins, Otto Von Bismarck and the regressive beer
The BBC web-site has published the news that the Scottish brewer Brewdog has brewed the most alcoholic beer in the world.”What’s new?!” you would think, since the Tactical Nuclear Penguin project become public several weeks ago. Right? Wrong, because the beer we’re talking about is not the penguin’s, but a new production, brewed to allow Brewdog to reclaim the title of most alcoholic brewery in the universe. What has happened? Let’s try to sum up this depressing story…
As I already said, Brewdog is a brewery which became renowned throughout the world thanks to its excellent products and its irreverent marketing strategies. After achieving fame with its basic beers, the brewery has begun a policy that focuses on innovative and daring productions, not only capturing the attention in the circle, but also that of the alcoholic beverages control authority. For example, in the past they had problems with the release of Tokyo (for the high alcohol content, 18%) and Speedball (for its “stupefying” name, changed in Dogma).
On this series of sensationalistic projects my personal opinion (shared by others) is that very soon Brewdog have lost the inspiration, moving toward crass ideas. The “How to Disappear Completely”, with its very low alcohol content was an interesting response to the criticism received. Pity that the subsequent “Nanny State” – capable of pushing this concept to the extreme – appeared as a simple bad copy.
Next step was Tactical Nuclear Penguin, which with its 32% ABV has conquered the throne of the most alcoholic beer in the world. This goal was uninspiring in my opinion, running from one of the most trivial ideas in the history of craft beer. The record has enabled Brewdog to land on the main media, thanks to the usual aggressive communication of the brewery.
Few have pointed to who owned the previous record. Was a German brewer, the Schorschbräu, who with its Schorschbock (31% ABV.) had reached the peak in December 2008. Evidently the news of the encroachment of the record by Brewdog not pleased the Germans, who recently introduced the new version of Schorschbock, which boasts a resounding 40% ABV.
Does the story end here? No way. As anticipated, today we learn that Brewdog has again regained supremacy. The new alcoholic bomb is called Sink the Bismarck, with a clear reference to the challenge with the Germans, and reaches 41% ABV. For now the soap opera stops here, waiting for a new and depressing update.
So Tactical Nuclear Penguin kicked off this sad run-up to the most senseless record ever. The challenge to “Who has more alcohol” has already reached ridiculous levels, and probably will not stop here. In all of this beer, understood as a liquid inside a bottle, goes completely into the background: the BBC article makes no mention whatsoever to its characteristics, if talking about a 41% ABV beer makes sense at all.
Considering the resonance that the story is receiving, it is no difficult to predict good bargains for its protagonists. These productions are sold for their weight in gold: a bottle of Penguin is sold at 35 pounds, the new Schorschbock at 10 pounds a “shot”, while Sink the Bismarck will only be available online at the modest sum of 40 pounds for a 33cl bottle. Hard times for the wallets of beer geeks.
What remains of the old Brewdog philosophy? Is it possible that the innovative ideas they had in the past – shareable or not – are conveyed in this completely pointless race? Being proud to produce the most alcoholic beer in the world, and to persevere in this, is typical of companies that lack originality, which aim to collect the favors of those who thinks only of getting drunk.
In addition, how can today Brewdog respond credibly to the criticisms of those who described it as a “irresponsible” brewer? When some accuses were bring after the introduction of Tokyo, it was easy to show their senselessness. But now that the Scots have decided to embark on this run-up, is it still that easy? I too am beginning to think that they are irresponsible, not to consumers, as to the international brewing movement: I find it dangerous to come into the limelight with a project that can only bring negative consequences to the image of beer.
Leave room for your opinions.

