Mar
30
'10Turan, from Tuscia a new brewery in Lazio
Last night I was invited by Mirko of bir&fud bottega at his store, where I had the pleasure of being introduced to Massimo and Orazio (and their spouses) of the newborn Turan brewery and taste their creations. The brewery is located a stone throw from Montefiascone (VT), overlooking Bolsena Lake. The area is called Tuscia, a region once inhabited by the Etruscan civilization, the first people in Italy who produced beer. The very name of the company is a tribute to this ancient people, as Turan was the goddess of love and fertility, similar to the Roman Venus and the Greek Aphrodite.
Massimo and Orazio have recently flung themselves in this adventure, after meeting by chance in one of the many moments of shared brewing passion. Their beers are characterized by very specific elements: they must be clean, easy to drink, but without giving up originality. Despite their creations aim to surprise, they always do it in a very discreet and elegant way.
The first beer we tasted is the oOps, an Amber Ale brewed with cardamom. The use of this spice is at times experimented by homebrewers, often facing the difficulty of proportioning it appropriately. Although it is a well known ingredient in brewing, it is difficult to find an Italian beer brewed with it. The boys at Turan have accepted the challenge, which required several refinements of the original recipe before getting the definitive version (the fifth, if I remember correctly). The result is a very pleasant beer, the cardamom is easily recognizable in the nose where it is presented in a refined way, and harmonizes itself with the malt notes. The flavour is immediately balanced by a clear hopping, which contributes to a long and bitter dry finish. To drink by the gallon during the hot months ahead.
The second beer we sampled is the Sfumatura, defined as Imperial Stout but difficult to categorize. The most interesting aspect is the use of smoked malts, which of course recall Bamberg Rauchbier. In reality, the smoked tang is not as dominant as in German counterparts, and indeed appears finely measured to embrace the typical characteristics of Stout. The body has impressed me above all, unexpectedly weak, and I found very difficult to trace that 7.2% ABV. You could compared it to Lambrate’ Ghisa, the mother of all Italian Rauchs, but the differences are considerable nevertheless. The Sfumatura is brewed to appeal the most (and it’s a compliment!) apart from being dangerous drinkable: a brilliant discovery!
In addition to the two beers above mentioned, Turan produces other four: the Tuscia Riserva, a Belgian-inspired Dark Strong Ale, aged six months in Etruscan caves, the Sonica, an easy Golden Ale, but far from being uninteresting, and the Ultrasonica, an extra hopped version of the Sonica; finally the Quinta, a promising Saison with Tuscia honey.
In short, the Turan brewery already shows a high level of creativity, that may be found even in some cool and interesting brainwave of its two founders. How can we not mention, for example, the page of the website that records all the batches (both useful to the consumer as to the producer), or the combination of beer to specific songs of various kinds (what about the oOps & Talking Heads Psycho Killer pairing?), or definitely crazy tasting notes, like that of the Sfumatura:
In the deep darkness you abandon yourself to a sooty voluptuousness, in front of the fireplace where embers glows. Smoke on smoke, you light up rolled up tobacco leaves, De André is talking to you about an Amico Fragile, and you look it melting at your feet, persuasive, before losing your eyes for a moment on an ancient miniature, ships leaving the London smoky docks to deliver Imperial Stout in cold lands. Smoke in the eyes, in mouth, in the heart.
Turan beers will soon be available on the market. Rome will be one of the squares where there will be more present: from now on you can buy them at the bir&fud Bottega in 41, Luca Valerio street, while shortly they should be served at Open Baladin in Rome. Waiting to try the other creations of Massimo and Orazio we wish them a great good luck!

