Domus Birrae

Nov

11
'09

A challenge between Belgium and Italy @ Open Baladin Rome

Palli, Schigi, Gregory and Leonardo

Palli, Schigi, Gregory and Leonardo

Last Friday I attended, along with fifty other passionates, a fantastic “tasting-contest” at Open Baladin in Rome. A match between Belgium and Italy with Gregory Verhelst from Rulles brewery, defending an old and renowned brewing tradition, and Alessio Selvaggio, from Croce di Malto brewery, Riccardo Franzosi from Montegioco and Paolo Fontana of Baladin for Italy. The rules were simple: three beers per side paired with specially designed finger food by Gabriele Bonci. An exceptional referee: Luigi d’Amelio, aka Schigi.

We started tasting Rulles Blonde and Rulles Triple. The former is the “basic beer” of the brewery, a beer designed to be drunk with ease, although a 7% ABV. Rulles Triple is perhaps one of the best appreciated interpretations of classic Tripel. Both excellent, beautifully balanced and perfumed, thou the aroma of the Blonde was not perfect, splitting hairs. Rulles confirms itself as solid brewery, of high quality, with a significant detail: the value for money.

Schigi with Gregory and Palli

Schigi with Gregory and Palli

In his speech on various topics, Gregory explained us some of the differences between Walloon and Flemish beers and those between the Italian and Belgian brewers. In particular, he said in Belgium producers are accustomed to deal much more easily with each other than the Italian counterparts, where, in his opinion, they’re more jealous of their “secrets.” Paolo Fontana – an exceptional translator – refuted, saying that this is possibly due to the fact that the Italian brewing tradition is way younger than the Belgian.

The Blonde and the Triple were paired respectively with Scrocchette & Fatate (potato croquettes and crisps) and with a cold spelt, endive and pecorino salad. A nice paring, although the bitter note of the endive not perfectly matched the beer.

Bianca, Alessio Selvaggio and me

Bianca, Alessio Selvaggio and me

The first Italian beer satisfied the curiosity of the presents. The Triplexxx, winner of the platinum medal at the Mondial de la Bière held in Strasbourg. Alessio Selvaggio, after receiving the homage for this success, introduced his creation expressing humility and passion. The beer impressed me for its cleanness and for be flawless, a not to be underestimated detail in the Italian brewing scene. The nose is an explosion of sweet perfumes and spices, which are also found in the beginning, when swallowed, but then these intriguing notes are lost and the remaining sensations are less compelling. It’s a really good beer indeed, pleasant, and deserves more than a taste. The Triplexxx was paired with a spinach and Silano (Calabrian cheese) risotto, very good although it was perhaps a bit too delicate. Seemed most suitable for the pork shin, which was paired with the next beer instead…

From left, Riccardo, Palli and Leonardo

From left, Riccardo, Palli and Leonardo

Then came the turn of Riccardo of Montegioco with his Bran Barriquee Reserve, an aged in barrels version of its Old Ale. Riccardo Franzosi is renowned for his ability of aging beers in wood: the Bran Reserve has an intriguing color, fragrances and a fantastic balance above all. It was paired with pork shin and cabbage braised with Super Baladin. Even in this case the combination does not fully convinced me, because the meat was hardly able to sustain the structure and complexity of the beer.

The last two beers, two Christmas, were paired with desserts. Gregory introduced another world classic: Rulles Cuvée Meilleurs Voeux. It’s a “sui generis” Christmas beer, wonderfully spiced and very drinkable despite the high alcohol content. Paired with a cinnamon and hazelnut biscuit, a great match.

Bianca likes the Christmas beers

Bianca likes the Christmas beers

The last beer was the new Crismas CU+, a collaboration between Baladin e Birra del Borgo. Leonardo Di Vincenzo (Birra del Borgo) selected the malts, while Teo Musso and Paolo Fontana (Baladin) selected the spices, hops and yeast. It’s a 11% ABV ale, with almond and candied fruits notes, full, mellow and sweet. Perhaps not that drinkable and balanced, but not bad being their first attempt. Combined with a creamy chocolate, orange, cinnamon and ginger gelée, it was an interesting marriage.

At the end of the evening

At the end of the event

A lovely evening, which allowed us to sample many good beers. A great opportunity to enjoy so many guests at once and to compare the Belgian beer culture with the Italian, considered its direct scion. All within the fantastic scenery of the Open Baladin, which made the evening even more magical. Congratulations to all the staff for the excellent event!

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